Jomsom Trek

Once we're in Mukinath we're technically on the very popular Jomsom trek.  There is a very poor road up to Mukinath so we see some motorcycles but not cars...maybe a Jeep.  There is a temple here that is a mix of Hindi and Buddist that we visit with our Hindi guides, we challenge eachother to feats of strenght in lifting a big rock inside the temple grounds.  The Mukinath temple is a pilgrimage site for some.  The air feels thick at 13,000 feet.  We find out that we've been calling Qumar "Duma" for 11 days before he corrects us...he thinks it's hilarious.  Day 12 we find out that Duma, now Qumar, finds the many bridges that we cross to be just about the only thing that he doesn't find funny.  We rejoice and take lots of pictures of him on nearly every scary bridge after that...the humor of another man's fear simply trancends language and culture.  By this time we've gotten to know a number of fellow travelers on the same route, great people a alot of fun playing card and throwing dice with them.  The rest of the trip is a lot of down, with some flat, and then two days of up and then a bunch of down.  I am charged/chased by a water buffalo, they are surprisingly spry but a rearing waterbuffalo insires quickness of my own and I prevail.  Laxma and Qumar throw rocks at them.  At one point there are 3,300 stone steps hand cut and placed...I realize that if you count steps and name them, people feel compelled to go up and down them- this is one of my first recognizable themes linking all my travel so far.  Still amazing sights, but we all feel the Jomsom side to be less interesting than the first half- and frankly I've already written too much to hold anyones attention save my Mother.  Big mountains still surround us.  The last day is a tough 7hr one espcially for Eberly who is still ill and running on fumes and luke warm Sprite.  Pictures are of offending water buffalo that chased me.

Powered by Qumana