Saturday, February 28, 2009

More BA


Another leisurely day in Buenos Aires.  We went to La Plaza de Mayo where important world events took place like when Madonna stood on the balcony of the government building overlooking the square and sang form the heart for the blockbuster hit move "Evita" (said balcony in picture).  Other less famous people also spoke to the masses here, like Peron and his fashionable and charismatic wife with the same name as the Madonna film.  On an unbelievable note, when Peron was losing his grip on power some navy planes overflew the plaza and strafed the crowd killing many.  After Evita died, Peron's power eroded, he fought off a couple more coupe attempt before he was forced out of office. On Thursdays the "mothers of the disappeared" march every week to protest, decades later, the 10s of thousands of innocent people, and sons, who were tortured and killed by a militant regime that followed Peron.  This country is a weird balance of prosperity and pride with an economy that can appear stable and wipe out life savings and cash economy instantly.  We were sitting at a cafe discussing how we all feel immune to those things in the US, but we're seeing cracks that really aren't so different.  There, sometimes a little history in the blog, sometimes some small bits to think about, and sometimes stories of thinly disguised prostitutes chatting up bungling Americans...es una novela.

Friday, February 27, 2009

Buenos Aires...


Arrived in BA Thursday.  This city is huge, 9th biggest in the world.  It's like LA if LA was 12 stories high throughout the city.  We're in the charming Paliermo section.  Last night dinner was at11:30pm, we finished at 2am and hung out at an outdoor cafe until 4:30am.  We got up early today at 11am and trying to keep the hours of the locals.  Steak is great, wine is fantastic- Malbecs at $4 a bottle.  Sean is on a boat to Antartica today but Michael Finnie, a friend from SF, showed up and is going to travel with us in BA and Rio.  Jeff is flying home tonight.

The weather is great, cafe culture persists, and people are really friendly.  I think it's part of the national identity.  Sometimes people are nice because of their upbringing, sometimes because of their culture.  Eberly and Finnie met a couple of really nice people last night, there could have been many reasons why they were nice people, but I'm betting that the fact that they were prostitutes was probably the most prominent one.  It was difficult to tell until one told Eberly that "I work for the company"..."no, no, you don't understand....I-work-for-the-COMPANY."  But again, they were very nice although perhaps a bit frustrated.  In fact I think I'll start using the phrase "more frustrated than an Argentinian prostitute" on a regular basis.  Feel free to do the same.

Penguins!


Jeff and I took a boat out to see the breeding grounds of Magellianic Penguins in the middle of the Beagle straight.  They're cute, walk funny, swim, and were able to hang out just a few meters away from them.   The spend 6 months floating around the ocean, 6 weeks on this island, and then it's not clear what they do for the other 4 months...that's when I stopped listening.

Ushuaia



We spent a couple of relaxing days in Ushuaia at "el fin del mundo".  It's supposed to be the most southern city in the world...although a small city named Port Williams is visible to the south but I don't think they can get a cruise ship into it to sell t-shirts to Princess cruise passengers....so it's Ushuaia.  We stayed at the Tango Inn B&B where they were shocked to see 4 guys show up.  "es un surprise".  Nonetheless the guy there played a mean tango accordion and we all leaned to dance the tango with his wife and daughter.  It was a fun evening of listening to music and learning about tango in their living room.

We spent a day in Tierra del Fuego national park where we hiked along Darwin's stomping grounds on the Beagle straight.  Jeff caught a bunch of trout.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Video from Torres del Paine

Here's a video of our time in Torres del Paine.  The clip is kinda long, I tried to reduce the size so it's not too much of a hog.  Let me know if there are problems playing it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2h7UY5w4Cs

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Moreno Glacier



Feb 22- Eberly, Sean and I went on a glacier hike today while Jeff nursed his knee with Argentine chocolate and apparently enough ice cream that they had to weigh it to charge him.  The ice hike was fun, it was the first time I'd ever worn crampons.  We took an hour bus ride from Calafate, a boat across a lake and then hiked for 12 kilometers on the ice.  We found some cool pools, rivers and formations.  The Moreno glacier is stable, which means that it gains and loses 1.5 meters of ice per day.  We saw some pretty big chunks hit sheer off into the lake and had to wait to land the boat until the swell from one of them subsided. One surprising thing is that there are rivers and lakes on top of the glacier as well as in the glacier.  Eberly took a couple fun tumbles on the ice and found out how sharp it is.  I'm not sure if it's a cool thing to have "glacier burn" or not...but it was entertaining for Sean and I.

Friday, February 20, 2009

El Chalten





We crossed into Argentina from Chile and we're all diggin' the little town of El Chalten.  Enough to stay here an extra day.  From the looks of all the new construction this town will be twice the size in a year and unrecognizable in 3 years.  We've been downing empanadas on the trail and found some incredibly tasty stew "Locro" and hand crafted beer at a place called the Cervesaria.


We've been spending the last few days being relatively dry and going on three spectacular day hikes.  Lago Cerro where we hiked up to a glacier and I chewed on some pretty pure glacier ice from the lake then Fitz Roy and got lucky with some clear views.  Today was a long hike of both with elevated views.


Besides the incredible scenery little things are pretty spectacular here too.  We ran across a stream today that was so clear it was nearly invisible in some places.  On some of the rocky parts of the trail I literally coundn't tell there was standing water until my boot got wet.  There were some cool whispy clouds too.  The wind comes from all directions so it makes some pretty funky formations.  Fitz Roy was one of the most dramatically rugged views I've ever seen.


We have one more day here and then a bus ride to El Calafate in two days where we'll get out on the Moreno Glacier. Jeff tweaked his knee yesterday, so we're hoping that gets better fast.


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Tuesday, February 17, 2009

The Water


The water here is incredible.  Best I've ever tasted.  It's all glacier runoff so you can drink it right out of the streams, rivers, and lakes.  There's also plenty of it, rivers are high, one was impassible and rerouted our hike.  Seeing animals too- guanacos, rheas, condor, a fox, a countless number of the happiest stray dogs you've ever seen, and believe it or not pink flamingos too. 

The Crew


As much as I'd like to just continue to post pictures of me and only me on this blog, I am actually traveling with some other folks.  This shot is at the beginning of the Torres del Paine hike.  Jeff Pisani, John Eberly and Sean Mulherin.  John and Sean were also laid off from WaMu and are traveling indefinately.  Jeff somehow was able to get 3 weeks from his job at Wells.  Great crew with only one highly commical group argument in Santiago about who was the best dice player followed by loud accusations of being sore winners or losers.  Four Americans sitting at a streetside cafe throwing dice, ordering beer and arguing about dice strategy.  We were a spectacle.  I think we decided that I was right. 


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Torres del Paine


Okay so I was wrong.  The wind is anything but constant, it's like no wind I ever been in before.  One minute it'll be a nice breeze and the next it will drop you to a knee to keep from knocking you off your feet.  Winds are 50mph+ and without hiking sticks there would be no way to stay on the trail...it's actually been a fun aspect out here when you have the "bring it on" attitude.  We hiked the "W" route in Torres del Paine which is a 5 day backpack trip with amazing scenery.  They say that you see as much of Patagonia as it'll let you, and we're experiencing that.  We've been taking it in the teeth with the weather with wind, rain and some cold- so we've earned what we've seen and it's been awesome.


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Monday, February 9, 2009

Patagonia


Flew from Santiago to Patagonia today and took a bus from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales.  Felt the cold water of the Magellan Straight and skipped a few rocks into the choppy waters.  We're realizing that the one constant out here is the wind...which we learned immediatly with a windblown landing at the airport and a squirrely landing.  The other constant is my absolute domination in the dice game "Greedy, greedy, greedy" that we've been playing while relaxing at a cafe etc.  I believe these two things to be inevitable while we're here.


Tomorrow we'll hunt for los gigantes de Patagone and provision in Puerto Natales for our 4 day backpack trip on the "W" in Torres del Paine on Wed.  Patagonia is immense.  Note: the picture has Straight of Magellan in the background.  Above all we're having a great time!


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Finally in Santiago Chile!


Summer in Santiago was great, we (Jeff, Sean, John and I) cruised around the city.  They sell everything at the open market here which covered city block after city block... fresh ray, sea urchin, fresh fish, dog chow and these huge ears of corn.  Starting to get used to the southern hemisphere...although it's odd to see the sun set in the East. I'm remembering some Spanish too.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Itinerary

As promised here's my itinerary in it's current form.  Last week was the last week of work and I leave this Friday for South America.  It getting close!



South America
Feb 6th Fly San Francisco to Santiago Chile
Feb 7-9th Santiago, Chile
Feb 10th Punta Arenas
Feb 11-15th Torres del Paine
Feb 16th El Calafate to El Chalten
Feb 17-18th Parque National Los Glaciares
Feb 19-20th Cerro Fitzroy
Feb 21st Look around
Feb 22nd El Calafate
Feb 23rd El Calafate to Ushuaia
Feb 24-25th Tierra del Fuego search for Patagones
Feb 26-28th Buenos Aires, Argentina
Mar 1-2nd Iguazu Falls, Brazil
Mar 3-6th Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Mar 7th Arrive in San Francisco

Keys and Caribbean
Mar 13th Fly San Francisco to Miami
Mar 14-15th Miami, Florida
Mar 15-18th Punta Gorda, FL
Mar 18-20th Caribbean, St. John
Mar 21-29th British Virgin Island Sailing
Mar 30th San Francisco

Nepal Trek
Apr 5th Fly San Francisco to Bangkok
Apr 6th Bangkok, Thailand
Apr 7-8th Katmandu, Nepal
Apr 9-30th Anaperna Trek, Nepal
May 1-4 Nepal
May 5th Bangkok, Thailand

Southern Asia
May 6th Bangkok, Thailand
May Vietnam
June Cambodia
Indonesia

Japan
June Tokyo, Japan
June 28th Fly to SFO